#whogrowsyourfood

A Glimpse into our Farmers’ Lives
Photography By & | August 05, 2022
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Stephanie Maynard and her sons Mark and Jackson attempt to make it to the barn for evening chores but are waylaid by a puddle. Like so many family farms, kids are a part of the fabric of the farm.

Farming has been a fundamental part of our civilization for thousands of years. The crops farmers grow and the animals they raise have fed and nourished us, and for most of our history, the farmers, themselves, have been tightly woven into our communities. As recently as 60 or 70 years ago, most communities had personal relationships with their local farmers — when you bought milk or carrots or eggs, you probably bought it from the farmers, themselves, or at least knew who it was that did the work that brought that food to you.

Photo 1: Mark Maynard, Jr., awaits visitors at Ox Hollow Farm in Woodbury.
Photo 2: Fred and Barney are the oxen of Ox Hollow Farm. These retirees are dignified keepers of the farm's history, having been a part of the farm from some of its earliest days. (Ox Hollow Farm, Woodbury)
Photo 3: There are no "off days" in farming, particularly livestock farming. Evening chores, after a full day of farmers' market and hay-cutting is a reminder of that. But even with dinner, bath-time for the boys and bookkeeping still ahead, Stephanie is positive. It seems there is an extra energy source somewhere on this farm. (Ox Hollow Farm, Woodbury)
Photo 4: Mark helps his mom feed hay during evening chores. Like so many other kids we've met, he's been part of the fabric of the farm from his earliest days. (Ox Hollow Farm, Woodbury)

However, with the advent of the Green Revolution in the 1960s — the period in which new farming technologies, seed hybrids, and modern farm machinery massively increased farm production efficiency — that all began to change. Farmers could produce so much food, and so cheaply, that fewer farms were required to meet a community’s food needs. Small, community-based farms slowly consolidated into fewer, larger farms, frequently outside the social and economic sphere of the communities they fed. As time passed, the average person no longer knew who grew the food they were eating; it simply waited for them on a grocery store shelf, bereft of connection to the real humans who grew it and the often difficult process that entailed. Food had become a mere commodity, to be purchased and consumed as needed.

Photo 1: Stephanie and Mark Maynard. (Ox Hollow Farm, Woodbury)
Photo 2: Stephanie Maynard and son Mark. (Ox Hollow Farm, Woodbury)

Recent years have found some communities rebelling against this increasingly impersonal food system. Distrust of processes in the food production chain, a desire for healthier (and safer) food, and, perhaps most of all, a yearning for stronger, more interconnected communities have all contributed to a slow reversal of this process. Grocery stores now often label locally-produced food, and here in Connecticut, farmers markets have grown in number and frequency, helping to reconnect consumers with the farmers who produce their food.

Photo 1: We were invited to Riverbank on what was a “slow day.” Is there such a thing on a farm? Trucks were blowing up dust on the paths, farmers picking crops in the field, food being prepared in the kitchen, boxes of produce loading into trucks for markets. This nestled farm by the river was humming. (Riverbank Farm, Roxbury)
Photo 2: David Blyn and his wife Laura founded a farm that reflects their unwavering idealism, coexisting with a realism born from experience. The result is both a profound reverence and an exuberant irreverence in the best ways; as if they somehow know just what bits of life actually need to be taken seriously…and then they have a bit of fun with the rest. (Riverbank Farm, Roxbury)
Photo 3: Laura McKinney (pictured) and David Blyn raised their family on this land. Laura and I connected as moms of seniors this year applying to college. Her daughter got in early to one of her top choices and my son was still waiting to hear. The first time I saw her at the market after months of winter, she paused from her obvious hustle and asked how it turned out for my son. She told me she had been thinking of him; I believe her. (Riverbank Farm, Roxbury)
Photo 4: Laura McKinney looks into the fields, laden with equipment and structures. (Riverbank Farm, Roxbury)

Yet, even with farmers selling their goods directly to buyers at local markets, their personal lives, and their triumphs and tribulations that were once so well known to the people in their community, often remain elusive. In many ways, even at farmers markets, the farmers are merely a portal to the food, not a connection to how that food got here. Seeking a way to restore this connection, Lori Cochran-Dougall, Director of the Westport Farmers’ Market, turned to local artists as a doorway into farmers lives.

Laura stops to pull a bunch of carrots from a row. She brushes off the dirt and breaks off a bite. It is the sweetest carrot I've ever eaten. Because it's in a valley, she explains, the air cools earlier in the season. The colder air drives the sugars down into the roots making the carrots sweeter. But that cold air may also kill the crop in early frost. In a way the farm's reliable water source also makes it tougher to survive. But when the frost alarm goes off in the middle of the night and they head out into the moonlight to save the crop, they turn on the irrigation systems and pull water from the same river to warm the crop just enough to save it. (Riverbank Farm, Roxbury)

“Two years ago, I started the Who Grows Your Food (#whogrowsyourfood) campaign to help expand people's knowledge of who their farmers are and what their lives are really like, with the hope of evoking emotion to warrant further support for local agriculture. I was introduced to Anne Burmeister and Ashley Skatoff, who offered to lend their cameras and creativity to the campaign. From there, their journey began as they folded themselves into our local farms to capture the essence of the farmers, while creating an intimate story that we, the eaters, could follow along.”

Photo 1: Tranquility reigns at Riverbank Farm in Roxbury.
Photo 2: Goats disregard critical signage under an early spring sky at Riverbank Farm in Roxbury.

The campaign rapidly picked up steam when the Museum of Contemporary Art Westport partnered on the project, transforming it into a full fledged exhibit, “Between the Ground and the Sky,” that included artists like Donna Forma, Douglas Tirola, and Kristyna and Marek Milde as contributing artists. The result is an ever-evolving initiative that puts the farmer in front of their food in a way that many have never seen, and helps illustrate the critical and difficult work they do that has become unfamiliar to so many.

Photo 1: Erica Teveris and her father, Peter, in the orchard at Woodland Farm in South Glastonbury with a morning's harvest of apples, peaches, and more. Erica earned a degree in plant pathology but, missing the challenge of farm work, left the lab and returned to working on the farm in 2011.
Photo 2: Erica Teveris and her father, Peter, in the orchard at Woodland Farm in South Glastonbury.
Photo 3: Erica Teveris prunes in the Woodland Farm orchard in South Glastonbury.
Photo 4: Blue keeps an eye on fallen blossoms at Woodland Farm, South Glastonbury.

For Cochran-Dougall, it has been fulfilling to hear from the featured farmers, some of whom note that they “have never been the one on the wall,” and that “it was scary to show the farm in its realities, but this exhibit tells the story of our work in and relationship to nature.” We here feature some of Burmeister’s and Skatoff’s images, in their own words.

Woodlands Farm, South Glastonbury

Find more artwork and learn more about the project on the Westport Farmers’ Market’s social media channels, or by using the hashtag #whogrowsyourfood.

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